Two Tour Tassie, part 3

STRAHAN TO CRADLE MOUNTAIN

Back into the high country!

The next part of our journey was to take us north-east into the high country, still part of the World Heritage area.  Our first stop was in Zeehan to look at the Minerals Heritage Museum to see some of the minerals and mining-related equipment on display.  Two samples were particularly breathtaking.  I'd never heard of Crocoite which is composed of shards of crystals about the size of matchsticks. The overall size is about the same as a coconut and colour is bright crimson. 

 The previously unheard of Crocoite

Now most people will be familiar with the Australian opal when it's finished and set in jewellery but how many have seen it still encased in surrounding rock?  I hadn't but it's simply stunning.  Please forgive the photo quality, it was hard to do a decent job through protective glass. Size is about 3" long x 2' high. Must say I actually preferred it in this state to processed opals.

A fabulous unprocessed opal

We were also very taken with the old hand-cranked rail jigger shown in the photo below - perfect for holding races over 100 metres or so.  Any further and I'd be in cardiac arrest!

Unusual jigger design

Continuing on our journey, we were staggered at the amount of nocturnal roadkill on this stretch of road.  Literally every couple of hundred metres, there would be an expired species of Wallaby, Wombat or the like.  Looking at it another way, it's probably a good indicator of the vast numbers of wild creatures in this part of the world!  Hitting something like a Bennett's Wallaby on a bike would have serious repercussions and even in a car, your insurance company is going to frown at the size of the claim.  One person we spoke to thought than roadkill numbers in this area had increased in rough proportion to the decline in numbers of the Tasmanian Devil carnivore but more on this creature further on in the post.

Wild Wombats waiting to leap out on unsuspecting motorcyclists

Wild motorcyclists about to leap out on unsuspecting car drivers

It was on this stretch of road that a conversation between Jennie and me took on a slightly bizarre note - a not uncommon occurrence.  On our journey round Tasmania, we'd noticed that major rivers seemed to be named after places or rivers where the state's forefathers came from (Derwent, Tamar etc from Scotland).  More modest rivers seemed to be named after politicians or other prominent people (Elizabeth River, Henty River etc).  Then at one bridge, we saw a sign saying "Black Bob's Rivulet" - wish we'd taken a photo.  One occupant of our car came to the probably erroneous conclusion that such a small trickle was named after the local village drunk who was noted for relieving himself in the street when the pub doors had shut!  I suppose, dear reader, that you thought the conversations in the car would be high-minded...... all about the environment we were travelling through and similar stuff. Sorry to say, but one occupant frequently let the side down to much rolling of the eyes and tut-tutting by the other party.

Arriving at our accommodation at Cradle mountain, we were delighted to find beautifully-appointed wooden cabins dotted around the bush - completely private and absolute heaven.

 Unobtrusive cabin in the bush

 
First activity was to walk part way round the glacially-formed Dove Lake which sits in the shadow of Cradle mountain.  More sublime scenery although a wary eye was kept open after an information board said "all manner of wildlife, including the (venomous) Tiger snake"!  Fortunately, they'd probably detected us long before we saw them and scarpered.

A big rock and two inconsiderate Kiwi tourists blocking the view

Unadulterated view of Dove Lake and Cradle Mountain

 Beautiful sub-alpine shrub

Gorgeous mountain stream

Mountain tussock grassland - looks more gold in real life

After our bracing walk in rather hot conditions, we trotted off to a sanctuary which kept a small population of Tasmanian Devils which are the size of a terrier but all muscle. The Devils are top of the food chain carnivorous marsupials with an apparently massive bite pressure which will splinter bone but fortunately, pose minimal risk to humans.  That's a relief as the buggers can apparently climb trees, which is where I'd instinctively head if encountering one in the wild!  Much of their food supply these days is carrion, hence the earlier comments about roadkill although one of the national park staff had seen one bring down a live Wallaby with one bite.  Here's one in the sanctuary, with only a face that its mother could love.  

 What big teeth you have, Grandma!

Despite earlier assurances about posing no threat, I was slightly nervous about the way it would disappear into the long grass of its big enclosure then magically reappear right next to us at the 1 metre high fence as we moved round.  If they really can scale trees, I'm sure they could figure out a fence if they got a mite peckish.

 Come and pat me, I'm really friendly - honestly

Despite the foregoing levity, we liked them a lot.  The really sad thing is that wild colonies are in serious decline due to the spread of  facial cancers which were first seen in the late 1990's.  The cause is currently unknown and sanctuaries are a means of protecting them and breeding until progress is made.  Actually seeing a creature close up that is so threatened was quite an emotional experience.

Tasmania and the national parks in particular are teeming with wildlife and although you do see some during daytime, most of the animals come out at night to feed.  That night, we went out spotlighting to see what was about and were astounded to see just how many animals there were.  I'm not exaggerating when I say that every few tens of metres, we encountered different sorts of Wallabies, Wombats and Possums (but no Devils) - amazing!  Here are a few examples.  Not particularly good photos as the flash hasn't got much range.

Jennie's favourite - the Wombat

A Bennett's Wallaby

Yet another Wombat

We were surprised that all the animals were relatively unafraid of humankind.  I supposed they're used to seeing people wandering about and don't have adverse encounters with them.  We lay in bed that night listening to squeaks, snuffles and grunts all round our cabin and were exceedingly happy!

More of the adventure yet to come...

Two Tour Tassie, part 2

 IN AND AROUND STRAHAN

Back in NZ, we'd heard about 2 attractions in the Strahan area which had received rave reviews.  The first was the West Coast Wilderness steam railway which originally shifted ore from the Queenstown area to Strahan port in the late 1800's.  It used a rare Abt-design rack and pinion system on the steepest part of the mountain climb to give it mechanical grip.  After it fell into disrepair, it was resurrected to take tourists over the same route. There is currently some debate about whether it will be closed in the near future due to funding issues so we were determined to go just in case we never had a future opportunity.

Wilderness Railway station, Strahan

We arrived early to have a look round and a small diesel shunter brought some carriages to the platform.  Although the carriages were relatively new, they were reproductions of the originals and exquisitely finished in native timbers.

  Anxious to get going!

Superbly finished in native timbers

The small diesel shunter pulled us along the coastline and then into a spectacular steep gorge through the mountains, crossing many viaducts and bridges until we reached the gradient where the steam train with the rack and pinion would take over for the steep climb.

Scenery plus!

Yet more beautiful views

A brief stop in the Wilderness Area

I love modern technology but there's something about steam trains that stirs the soul.  All that noise and effort says you're getting value for your money and takes you back to the "golden age of steam" a century or more ago.  The puffing and clanking was a wonderful contrast to the silence of its surroundings in the deep gorge.

She'll be coming round the mountain when she comes, la la.....

Newly-restored Mt Lyell No 3 loco

First requirement was to turn the loco round as she'd come from the Queenstown end of the line.  There was a manually-operated turntable for this which required surprisingly little effort to turn a heavy loco round.

Lovely setting for a turntable

All steam and noise as the female engineer turns the loco round

View of the central rack for mountain climbing

Taking on water 

What a thrill to not only be travelling through such magnificent scenery but with the additional benefit of the loco chuffing and clanking up front, not to mention the smells and the mournful sound of the whistle!  The station at the small settlement of Queenstown is right in the main street in town so passers-by can see the train coming in and the loco being turned round on yet another turntable - what an asset to the region!  We really hope that the enterprise attracts some federal funding so that others can enjoy it in the future.

 

On the Queenstown turntable right in town

Arty-farty shot of the loco brightwork

Queenstown with Mt Lyell (I think) in background.  Taken from turntable

Next day, it was all aboard for the Gordon River cruise on the Lady Jane Franklin, also in World Heritage-listed scenery.  First up, we headed out into Macquarie Harbour which is some 110 sq miles in area.  It was almost flat calm when we went through Hell's Gates, the narrow entrance but in the early morning overcast conditions was easy to appreciate the hellish conditions which the early sailing ships faced on occasions.  Swells of more than 25 metres have been recorded in bad weather!!!

Hells Gates - frighteningly narrow entrance to Macquarie Harbour

After exiting the harbour for a short distance, we returned and cruised past the trout and salmon aquaculture farms and headed for the Gordon River.  This is famed for its calm waters and incredible mirror reflections - we weren't disappointed!

 Moody entrance to the Gordon River with perfect reflections

More mirror-glass reflections

Instant ripple art!

At a point well up the river, we berthed for a while and went walking through pristine bush.  We thought that NZ bush was dense, but getting lost in this would be a real nightmare!

Dense Tasmanian bush

The lair of the freshwater burrowing crayfish!

After our stop and with the clouds burning off, we visited the 15 acre Sarah Island in the harbour.  Although it's a really pretty place today, it was a hell-hole for the very worst convicts in the early 1800's.  

Remains of the penal colony bakery

Remains of prison building

Area where boats were built by convicts

Looks beautiful now, but a whole lot different nearly 200 years ago!

We both loved what was on offer in the Strahan area.  It would be remiss not to mention the professionalism of all the guides.  Many of them were in their 20's but whatever their age, their enthusiasm and love for the area and wanting to make sure that visitors shared all this really shone through.  It wasn't simply a job to them and full marks for going the extra mile - that's what makes Tasmania a very special place.

Part 3 coming up soon.......

Two Tour Tassie, part 1

Tasmania is Australia's island state off the SE corner of the mainland (or the north island, as some Tassie residents call it). It has an area of some 68,000 sq km with approximately 512,000 permanent residents, so overcrowding isn't an issue!  We've travelled extensively on the Oz mainland and enjoyed every minute of it but as Tasmania has its own unique flora, fauna and landscape, Jennie in particular has wanted to visit for some time.  A number of people have said "It's just like NZ, why bother?".  Well it ain't!  Some parts loosely resemble the central north island high country but delighted to say that it has its own unique character and we absolutely loved the 2 weeks we've just had there.  It's also one heck of a good motorcycling destination, but more on that later.  Unfortunately, we were on 4 wheels and I whined and grizzled every time a bike came past but at least in the car we could wear light clothing and enjoy the warm weather!

HOBART TO STRAHAN

From sea level, over the mountains and back to sea level

The first day and a bit was spent in Hobart, the state capital, looking around and catching up with one of Jennie's relatives who she last saw in England multiple decades ago!  We also got to briefly meet a distant relative of mine for the first time (ex-convict stock - yayyyy!!!). Hobart came into being over 200 years ago as a penal colony for what might be termed the less desirable end of the population of the British Isles.  There are still lots of lovely old period buildings.  Our accommodation was a 180 year old colonial house, complete with period furniture.

Cool old mahogany bed

The proprietor, Graeme, was a Harley enthusiast and made us very welcome, even if I was a Triumph owner without tatoos and didn't have a beard. Must have been Jennie's positive influence as I'll admit to trying to bait Graeme!  He and his wife Lynette also kept a ready supply of home-made cake and decanters of port in the guest lounge which was a lovely, fitting touch.

The Tasman Bridge, Hobart - note burned trees in foreground

The smell of woodsmoke was pretty strong and there was a haze on account of a big bushfire to the north-west of Hobart. The photo above which was taken in the city shows the effect of a recent small bushfire in an urban park, an ever-present danger in much of Australia.  More on this later.

Lifting bridge to accommodate large vessels well up the Derwent river

Contrasting angry skies and parched fields in the eastern high country

Tasmanian power is principally from hydro-electric generation and there are large lakes in the high country where much of the rain falls. The penstock tubes at Tarraleah, originally installed over 50 years ago are pretty impressive!

A long way down!

On the western side of the mountains near Queenstown, we discovered a mining operation with a cantilevered lookout right over a huge disused copper ore pit.  The water which had gradually filled the pit was an incredible emerald green. No photo could really do it justice.

The Iron Blow ore pit

Descending back to sea level, we entered the World Heritage-listed wilderness area around Strahan.  We were booked into a gorgeous cottage right on the edge of Macquarie Harbour. Stunning views and within crawling distance of a pub/restaurant - what more could we want???

Our waterfront cottage in Strahan

View from front door - bikes from mainland Australia, a ferry trip of about 11 hours

Riding a bike in Tassie would be an absolute joy with its low population density, fantastic, twisty roads and breathtaking scenery. Second only to NZ's south island :-).  As with most countries however, we saw some stunning examples of incompetent driving of the 4-wheeled variety.  Crossing the centre line on bends seemed to be mandatory by law judging by the frequency drivers did it!  In Strahan itself, the driver of a 4x4 pulled out of a side turn right in front of us (thanks IAM for the situational awareness training!) then proceeded to turn in front of a vehicle coming the other way just a few hundred metres later!  Later that day, we saw the same vehicle parked in a no parking area obstructing both pedestrian and vehicle traffic.  There are some real pillocks on this planet!!!

Floatplane just across the road from our cottage - really choppy conditions

We based ourselves in Strahan for the next couple of days to take advantage of two activities which were truly world class - more on that in the next post and you can judge for yourselves......

Sometimes, the tough days are the best!

You may not believe it, but I've been crapping myself about today!

Just before Christmas, I was due to sit my Institute of Advanced Motorcyclists Observer (Mentor/Instructor) test and managed to stuff up my back at home 2 days beforehand.  Chief Examiner Philip rang up a few days ago to re-schedule and today was the day!

Having just concentrated on having a good time lazing about (i.e. eating and drinking too much) over Christmas, getting the back fully recovered and avoiding Coromandel Peninsula roads full of stupid visitors with only a few brain cells between them; it wasn't really good preparation for sitting one of the most exacting advanced roadcraft tests anywhere on the planet!  You might think with all the training so far, I'd be quite relaxed about it but the truth of the matter was a bit of confidence had ebbed away with the layoff .  As the appointed day got closer, so anxiety levels increased and sleep was pretty broken for the last 2 nights, waking up thinking about it.

Hopped on the bike early this morning and rode 180 km to Auckland to meet with Philip.  There was sufficient time for a serious think and to get some measure of composure.  An earlier comment by U.S blogger and bike instructor Dan Bateman (Irondad) kept floating through the brain, "Amateurs practice until they get it right; professionals practice until they can't get it wrong".  I'm a long way from being a professional but that comment was sufficient to remind me of all the intensive training that all IAM members go through and to have faith in "the system".  Amazingly, I was relatively relaxed on arrival, albeit a bit apprehensive .

First step was the written exam in 2 parts covering the NZ Road Code (road rules) and Advanced Roadcraft principles.  Yep, all pretty straightforward and passed them!

Next stage was for Philip to take me out for a personal ride evaluation to ensure that standards had been maintained, covering urban, motorway and country road work.  Not too stressful and at the half-way point, Philip was complimentary, with just a couple of refinement comments.  Next, he asked me to give a running commentary about the environment, my situational awareness and actions over the helmet comms.  Having given trainees a running commentary to help them previously, I didn't think it would be too bad but it turned out to be quite difficult giving it to the best of the best.  Philip, sorry to be gabbling like a gibbering idiot but you obviously thought I did ok thanks!  Phew...... another pass.

The final test was to follow a trainee and observe their performance.  Unfortunately, it was in the middle of a working day and unlike me, most trainees were either earning a crust or otherwise occupied, which meant that I had Philip as the trainee, deliberately throwing in subtle faults - oh nooooooo.... not good for stress levels.  When we pulled in at the end of the ride, I honestly didn't know whether I'd picked up enough to merit a pass until Philip shook my hand and said "Congratulations, you are now an Observer, you have a very high standard to uphold".  To be completely candid, I didn't know whether to cry or grin.  The stinging eyes must have been dust kicked up by the wind.

Philip McDaid, Chief Examiner and a very relieved pupil!

Less than 2 hours after getting home, the main feeling is one of profound relief at not having let myself and others down after 20 months of darned hard work.  The other feeling is of pride in achieving something incredibly demanding and worthwhile in an age where striving for excellence seems to be regarded as something slightly distasteful and elitist.

I started the journey after motorcycle author David Hough asked when I was going to get off my butt and do something about "future-proofing" my riding as I aged.  I owe David big-time for kick-starting it all.

To senior IAM members Philip McDaid, Wayne Holden, Simon Pamplin, Morne de Lange and Duncan Seed - put simply guys, you've transformed my riding and your generosity in making yourselves available on a voluntary basis in the cause of raising riding standards is truly humbling.  The only way that time and effort can be repaid is by doing the same for others.  Words aren't sufficient.

To my special mate,fellow blogger and Observer Rogey , we've travelled the same path together, shared doubts, taken the piss out of each other and most importantly, laughed our heads off !  Cheers, buddy!

It doesn't stop here of course, it's really only just starting.  Now we have to pass on what we've learned to others, raising our game every time we do it.  And that's the beauty of an organisation like IAM!